Unit 7 - Review Key - Wave Parameters printable pdf download

Unit 7 - Review Key - Wave Parameters

Unit 7 – Review Key

1. Sketch a diagram of a wave and label wavelength and wave height

2. What is the formula for calculating the speed of a wave?

Speed = wavelength/period

3. Why are waves in the ocean so much bigger than waves in a lake? Because oceans are so much larger they

provide much greater fetch (distance) for waves to build up.

4. What does it mean to say that a wave has a period of 10-30 seconds? It means that the individual waves are

10-30 seconds apart.

5. You are standing at the beach and observe 6 ft. waves striking the beach every 6 seconds. You estimate the

distance between the waves to be 30 meters. How fast are the waves moving? 5 m/s

6. What is sea state? A description of the sea surface conditions caused by a certain wind speed.

7. What three factors are necessary to produce large waves in the ocean? (1) wind speed, (2) wind duration, and

(3) fetch.

8. What is the difference between a developing sea and a fully-developed sea? A fully-developed sea in which

waves have reached their maximum height for the conditions. A developing sea has waves that are still

growing in size and expected to increase if conditions remain the same.

9. What is a wave train? A group of waves moving in the same speed and direction.

10. Which side of an island will experience the greatest erosion? The windward side

11. Define the following terms: Windward and Leeward Windward means the side exposed to the wind. Leeward

is the side protected from the wind.

12. Use both words and pictures to describe two differences between deep-water waves and shallow-water waves

Deep water waves do not touch the sea floor (the sea depth is greater than ½ the wavelength). Water moves

in a circular orbit in deep water waves. Shallow water waves touch the sea floor (the sea depth is less than ½

the wavelength). Water in shallow water waves moves in an elliptical orbit.

Unit 7 - Review Key - Wave Parameters