Unit 7 - Review Key - Wave Parameters (Page 2 of 2) in pdf

Unit 7 - Review Key - Wave Parameters Page 2

13. Most waves in the open ocean area caused by __wind_____

14. What is “swell” Swell is long period uniform waves away from the originating storm.

15. Describe the different movements of energy and water particles within a wave. The energy in a wave moves

forward. The water particles in a wave orbit in a circular pattern.

16. What does the Beaufort Wind Scale describe? Sea state under various wind conditions.

17. Which ocean has the highest average wave heights

The Southern Ocean.

18. Define the following terms with respect to ocean waves:

a. Reflection is when a wave bounces off a hard surface.

b. Refraction is when a wave bends when approaching shore (explains why waves tend to become

parallel to a beach).

c. Diffraction is when a wave spreads out after passing a narrow opening or a barrier.

19. What are three causes of tsunamis? Earthquakes, volcanoes, meteorite strikes

20. What are three characteristics of tsunamis waves? Very long wavelength, behave like shallow water waves,

cannot usually be detected by ships at sea, they slow down when approaching the shore, they come in groups

of 3 or 4 waves.

21. What characteristic of tsunamis makes them so much more destructive than ordinary wind-driven waves? Very

long wavelength

22. Why do most tsunamis occur in the Pacific Ocean? It is the ocean with the most seismic activity (earthquakes

and volcanoes)

23. What is the difference between a tsunami watch and a tsunami warning? Tsunami watch: Conditions for a

tsunami are present but one has not yet been detected. Tsunami warning: An actual tsunami have been

detected (but the size and speed may not yet be known)

24. What was the deadliest tsunami in history? The Indonesian tsunami of 2004

25. Which strikes first, the crest or trough of a tsunami? It depends on the source of the tsunami. If it is an

upwardly thrusting earthquake it will first produce a crest. If it is a downwardly thrusting earthquake it will

first produce a trough.

26. Do tsunamis form a single wave or multiple wave sets? Multiple wave sets.

Unit 7 - Review Key - Wave Parameters Page 2